Passover Trip to Ukraine

The second of the "three Ps" is now complete (Purim, Passover & Packing) and we are filled with feelings of fulfillment and gratitude as we have returned from our 8-day trip to the Former Soviet Union. Our trip to Ukraine to help conduct Passover Seders was the highlight of the year and it will hold a special place in our hearts as we look back on this experience.

We arrived in Kiev slightly delirious after an exhausting day of traveling. We knew we were leaving for the airport at 3am, so we decided to not go to sleep that night and stayed up watching the Cavs game followed by the Buckeyes. (although it was a victorious night for both, we found out the next day of our loss to Florida. Even from around the world,with little access to phones we managed to get the championship results!)

Matt and I traveled with his classmate, Maura who is also a rabbinical student this year. She will be in Cinci with us next year. From Kiev, we took another short flight on a very, shall we say, OLD plane. "Tin can on wheels" I believe was the phrase Maura used, to our first destination in Crimea, Simferopol. There we were greeted by our translator, Antonina, Anotoly Gendin, Chairman of the Association of Jewish Organizations & Communities in Crimea and our faithful driver, Sasha. Absolutely exhausted, we made a stop at the grocery store for water and the liquid toiletry items that were taken from us during our layover in Vienna, and headed to our hotel.

The three of us were very fortunate that all the cities we visited had actual synagogue buildings. Not many groups had this luxury. All three of the synagogues we attended were original structures from the late 1800's. They were either abandoned, destroyed or taken over by other businesses during the communist regime and it was not until the early 90s that they were reclaimed by Jewish community members who were willing start up the congregations once again. All three buildings we visited have started to make repairs and improvements on their facilities, but money is indeed a factor and they can only do so much. Simferopol is the only building that has been able to install a heating system. Needless-to-say, the other two synagogues were very, very cold. We can only imagine what its like in the middle of winter.

The next day we visited Ner Tamid, the congregation in Simferopol and prepared to lead our first seder for the community. The majority of the people who attended the seder were elderly members of the community. They were so joyful and thankful that we had come to be a part of their festivities. You can see in the pictures below, singing and dancing was a big part of the afternoon!

Next day it was onto Kerch. Kerch was a 3-hour drive south on the Black Sea. The three of us crammed into the backseat of Sasha's car and made it there in record speed. We later taught Sasha what Nascar was, and told him he could have another career in the States! The synagogue in Kerch was beautifully restored on the exterior and even had a small museum inside. This seder was the largest we lead with about 70 people. They had a wonderful community leader, Marina, with whom we co-lead the seder. Throughout the seder, we quickly realized that this congregation in particular had many active members and they really knew quite a lot about the holiday. They didn't necessarily need us there, but rather, as one elderly congregant stood and stated at the end of the evening, "Thank you for not forgetting us." It really brought home the reason we were there - to acknowledge and recognize Jewish communities in small, mostly unknown parts of the world and remind them we care.

Our third visit was to the city of Yevpatoria. Also along the Black Sea, this is a very interesting city. They like to think of themselves as a "little Jerusalem" because they have a Catholic church, Islamic Mosque and the synagogue all on the same block. Biggest difference between Yevpatoria and Jerusalem - they all live peacefully together in their small community. As you can see in the photos, you would never know by looking at the outside of the building how beautiful the sanctuary is inside. Here we were afforded the opportunity to participate in not only the seder, but a very special ceremony. The chairman of the congregation had just completed construction and installation of their first Torah Ark. (Aron Kodesh in Hebrew) He built this magnificent wood structure with his own hands and it was very special to take part in the ceremony to put the Torah in its new home. This seder also concluded with much singing, dancing and many very thankful, appreciative community members.

Our last day with our beloved Antonina and Sasha! They took us for a relaxing day to the city of Alushta, where we walked through the botanical gardens and ate lunch on the pier near the sea. We were sad that this was our last day with them, as Antonina was not joining us for our last two days in Kiev.

The next day Anatoly, Antonina and Sasha drove us to the airport for the dreaded flight (remember - tin can on wheels?) back to Kiev. There we met up with all the other groups who had been in other parts of Ukraine. We exchanged stories and photos and were happy to hear everyone had a wonderful experience in their respective cities. Kiev is absolutely gorgeous. Unfortunately, it was a cold rainy day so the pictures don't really do it justice. We attended Shabbat services at the WUPJ office and then we all went out for a great dinner with Rabbi Alex Dukhovny, Chief Rabbi of Ukraine.

Saturday we had a free morning and did more touring around the city. Thankfully, Jamie and Anna's translator came with us so we were able to get around the city without a problem. Then we headed back to the hotel for the community-wide Kiev seder lead by Rabbi Dukhovny.

Finally, Sunday morning was an emotional trip to Babi Yar. Babi Yar, once a enormous ravine where the Nazis murdered tens of thousands of Jews and other minorities, is now a park with several memorial statues scattered throughout. A powerful reminder of the history of Ukraine and how much suffering was endured in Kiev, not so long ago.

We headed to the airport again gathering our strength for a very long day of traveling. We all agreed that this experience was one that will stay with us for many years to come. We were touched in a very special way and I know Matt is already thinking of ways to revisit these communities in the future.

And...just in case you were all wondering (we know you were!), Mitzi was very well taken care of while we were gone, although unseen by her babysitter, and was a very happy, purring, cuddling cat upon our return home.

Forty-one days and counting to our return home...we can't wait to see everyone soon.

Love,
Erin & Matt