Passover Trip to Ukraine

The second of the "three Ps" is now complete (Purim, Passover & Packing) and we are filled with feelings of fulfillment and gratitude as we have returned from our 8-day trip to the Former Soviet Union. Our trip to Ukraine to help conduct Passover Seders was the highlight of the year and it will hold a special place in our hearts as we look back on this experience.

We arrived in Kiev slightly delirious after an exhausting day of traveling. We knew we were leaving for the airport at 3am, so we decided to not go to sleep that night and stayed up watching the Cavs game followed by the Buckeyes. (although it was a victorious night for both, we found out the next day of our loss to Florida. Even from around the world,with little access to phones we managed to get the championship results!)

Matt and I traveled with his classmate, Maura who is also a rabbinical student this year. She will be in Cinci with us next year. From Kiev, we took another short flight on a very, shall we say, OLD plane. "Tin can on wheels" I believe was the phrase Maura used, to our first destination in Crimea, Simferopol. There we were greeted by our translator, Antonina, Anotoly Gendin, Chairman of the Association of Jewish Organizations & Communities in Crimea and our faithful driver, Sasha. Absolutely exhausted, we made a stop at the grocery store for water and the liquid toiletry items that were taken from us during our layover in Vienna, and headed to our hotel.

The three of us were very fortunate that all the cities we visited had actual synagogue buildings. Not many groups had this luxury. All three of the synagogues we attended were original structures from the late 1800's. They were either abandoned, destroyed or taken over by other businesses during the communist regime and it was not until the early 90s that they were reclaimed by Jewish community members who were willing start up the congregations once again. All three buildings we visited have started to make repairs and improvements on their facilities, but money is indeed a factor and they can only do so much. Simferopol is the only building that has been able to install a heating system. Needless-to-say, the other two synagogues were very, very cold. We can only imagine what its like in the middle of winter.

The next day we visited Ner Tamid, the congregation in Simferopol and prepared to lead our first seder for the community. The majority of the people who attended the seder were elderly members of the community. They were so joyful and thankful that we had come to be a part of their festivities. You can see in the pictures below, singing and dancing was a big part of the afternoon!

Next day it was onto Kerch. Kerch was a 3-hour drive south on the Black Sea. The three of us crammed into the backseat of Sasha's car and made it there in record speed. We later taught Sasha what Nascar was, and told him he could have another career in the States! The synagogue in Kerch was beautifully restored on the exterior and even had a small museum inside. This seder was the largest we lead with about 70 people. They had a wonderful community leader, Marina, with whom we co-lead the seder. Throughout the seder, we quickly realized that this congregation in particular had many active members and they really knew quite a lot about the holiday. They didn't necessarily need us there, but rather, as one elderly congregant stood and stated at the end of the evening, "Thank you for not forgetting us." It really brought home the reason we were there - to acknowledge and recognize Jewish communities in small, mostly unknown parts of the world and remind them we care.

Our third visit was to the city of Yevpatoria. Also along the Black Sea, this is a very interesting city. They like to think of themselves as a "little Jerusalem" because they have a Catholic church, Islamic Mosque and the synagogue all on the same block. Biggest difference between Yevpatoria and Jerusalem - they all live peacefully together in their small community. As you can see in the photos, you would never know by looking at the outside of the building how beautiful the sanctuary is inside. Here we were afforded the opportunity to participate in not only the seder, but a very special ceremony. The chairman of the congregation had just completed construction and installation of their first Torah Ark. (Aron Kodesh in Hebrew) He built this magnificent wood structure with his own hands and it was very special to take part in the ceremony to put the Torah in its new home. This seder also concluded with much singing, dancing and many very thankful, appreciative community members.

Our last day with our beloved Antonina and Sasha! They took us for a relaxing day to the city of Alushta, where we walked through the botanical gardens and ate lunch on the pier near the sea. We were sad that this was our last day with them, as Antonina was not joining us for our last two days in Kiev.

The next day Anatoly, Antonina and Sasha drove us to the airport for the dreaded flight (remember - tin can on wheels?) back to Kiev. There we met up with all the other groups who had been in other parts of Ukraine. We exchanged stories and photos and were happy to hear everyone had a wonderful experience in their respective cities. Kiev is absolutely gorgeous. Unfortunately, it was a cold rainy day so the pictures don't really do it justice. We attended Shabbat services at the WUPJ office and then we all went out for a great dinner with Rabbi Alex Dukhovny, Chief Rabbi of Ukraine.

Saturday we had a free morning and did more touring around the city. Thankfully, Jamie and Anna's translator came with us so we were able to get around the city without a problem. Then we headed back to the hotel for the community-wide Kiev seder lead by Rabbi Dukhovny.

Finally, Sunday morning was an emotional trip to Babi Yar. Babi Yar, once a enormous ravine where the Nazis murdered tens of thousands of Jews and other minorities, is now a park with several memorial statues scattered throughout. A powerful reminder of the history of Ukraine and how much suffering was endured in Kiev, not so long ago.

We headed to the airport again gathering our strength for a very long day of traveling. We all agreed that this experience was one that will stay with us for many years to come. We were touched in a very special way and I know Matt is already thinking of ways to revisit these communities in the future.

And...just in case you were all wondering (we know you were!), Mitzi was very well taken care of while we were gone, although unseen by her babysitter, and was a very happy, purring, cuddling cat upon our return home.

Forty-one days and counting to our return home...we can't wait to see everyone soon.

Love,
Erin & Matt

FSU Pictures

Maura Linzer and the Cohen's get ready to fly to Simferopol from Kiev (in hopes to find someone who speaks English)


Antonina (our translator and good freind) posing with Anatoly Gendin (Chairman of Association of Jewish Organization and Communities of Crimea) in front of Ner Tamid, their home synagogue in Simferopol.


View of Menorah in Ner Tamid courtyard from behind outside gates.


Inside view of Courtyard (notice the steel shutters on all of the windows due to past instances of vandalism)


Anatoly standing with Aron Kodesh in Sanctuary




Our first Seder with the Simferopol community.


Singing Yiddish music


Hava Nagila raised the spirit of every one in the community (in every community we visited)


Calling home from Simferopol at the calling station. The only way to make a long distance call!


Hanging out on Karl Marx Street


The girls with Antonina


Next Stop: Kerch Synagogue


The Museum of Ukranian Judasim inside the Kerch Synagogue (The ceiling reads "Al Shlosha D'varim Ha'olam Omed" "On Three Things the World Stands" in Russian)


The Seder was held in their massive Sanctuary


The back wall of the Sanctuary.


Leading song during the Seder.


Antonina and Sasha (our driver) took us on a quick excursion through town in Kerch. We climbed all of those stairs.


At the top, a war memorial commemorating the victory the Russians had over the Nazis in WWII, holding them off from from occupying the port city of Kerch.


View from the top, the port. On a clear day one can see Russia to the right (not pictured)


Next Stop: Yevpatoria Synagogue


Inside the Yevpatoria Synagogue (the Aron Kodesh was just newly built and installed and we helped dedicate it in a beautiful ceremony as the community passed the Torah around the sanctuary while singing)


The windows inside the santuary.


Touring around the beautiful city of Yevpatoria (the Black sea behind us) before the Seder. Unfortunately we didn't bring our bathing-suits.


The whole crew posing in front of one of many beautiful Churches.


A Catholic Church


An Islamic Mosque of Yevpatoria


The dedication of the Aron Kodesh ceremony


Explaining the Order of the Seder in song with Genia, Yevpatoria's 20 year old community leader


The girls teaching the items of the Seder plate


And of course, singing and dancing!


Posing with the wonderful members of the Yevpatoria community


Our last day in Simferopol, Antonina and Sasha took us on a relaxing day to the botanical gardens in Alushta (a tourist city on the Black Sea)


In the botanical gardens, not quite ready for spring yet.


View of Alushta from lookout point


Walking along the Alushta beach. Not quite warm enough for a dip but perfect to relax by.


One more picture with Anatoly before heading to Kiev to meet up with the rest of the Ukraine group.


Kiev. Wow what a spectacular city.


Phil and I being our usual selves!


The Opera House


Posing in front of an ex-KGB Building


One of many astonishing churches


Some beautiful arcitecture of Kiev


Inside the Lavra Church.


My reaction upon seeing this Church: "Holy Mother of God!"
Phils quick response: "Yes. Exactly. Right there!"


A Stautue commemorating the victory over the Nazis. She is dressed in the same Robe as the Statue of Liberty, stands 40 meters taller than her, and is holding a sword and sheild (with the Russian flag on it). Woah. That's quite a statement.


A view of Kiev


The final Seder with the Kiev community


Chief Rabbi of Ukraine, Alex Dukhovny leading the Seder.


Our gift of music during the Seder


Our final stop before the long trip back to Israel. Babi Yar, the sight of over 100,000 Jews and many other Ukranian citizens murdered by the hands of the Nazis during WWII. This is the monument at the opening of the park commemorating all those who died at Babi Yar.



A monument in memory of the 40,000 children murdered at Babi Yar.




A memorial errected by the Jewish community in memory of the Jewish lives lost at Babi Yar.